Western Mass. 4x4 wm4x4

I looked into the resistor thing, and found that it's most common for the blower to crap out. Now, I know it's the resistor thing, and I don't know what it looks like, how to get to it, or what it would even cost for another one.

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I'd give anything to go back in time, but the memories are free.

'99 TJ Black
4" Trailmaster lift
33" BFG Mud terrains
Limited slip rear

relatively cheap if I remember right and I think it's behind the glove box. lots of stuff on JF

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TJ 4.0, AX15, 4"lift, 34" LTBs, Locked w/OX, Alloy axles, Skyjacker TC bracket, SYE, AtoZ Rocker Guards, Home Brew Bumpers, Tube Fenders & LCAs, GenRight EXT tank, Nth Degree SS & oil pan skid, winch

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Also those hanes manuals always come in handy for those type of things. Cant think of how many times all those wiring diragrams come in handy...

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Project: 1989 XJ 4.0 no-output, AW-4, NP231, 5" lift, Revolver shackles, 38.5" swamper TSL's on H1 beadlocks, Dana 60 front with ARB, Dana 60 rear welded, Hella 500's, Dynomax catback, Karnage Offroad Bumper, Smittybilt Xrc8 winch, oil leaks

the switch seems to be a common problem too. 25ish for new switch at dealer and 75ish for resistor

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TJ 4.0, AX15, 4"lift, 34" LTBs, Locked w/OX, Alloy axles, Skyjacker TC bracket, SYE, AtoZ Rocker Guards, Home Brew Bumpers, Tube Fenders & LCAs, GenRight EXT tank, Nth Degree SS & oil pan skid, winch

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lol imma look today and see what my price is..

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99 wj 6.5'' IRO long arm,242 TC with rusty's skid, 36'' TSL bias, locked D30, Welded and trussed D44HD. ext. rear LCA. IRO premo sliders.

Not sure what year yours is, but I looked it up as a 97 with a 4.0.
$35 bucks. I bet you could find it cheaper on ebay or something.

P/N(standard) RU-353

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99 wj 6.5'' IRO long arm,242 TC with rusty's skid, 36'' TSL bias, locked D30, Welded and trussed D44HD. ext. rear LCA. IRO premo sliders.

I'm hoping it's not the switch. I really don't want to take apart the entire dash to fix it. I've looked into my Haynes manual, ad it's kind of a process. If it's the resistor, I know exactly where it is now, and it's all of 2 bolts. I just can't understand why I've had so many issues with this damn thing.

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I'd give anything to go back in time, but the memories are free.

'99 TJ Black
4" Trailmaster lift
33" BFG Mud terrains
Limited slip rear

Yeah, most of the time it's better off to start with the cheapest part tho..lol
It doesn't look like to bad of a job, just a few screws and some taps.
If you have some free time, I enjoy lending a hand any day...if you feel like driving..

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99 wj 6.5'' IRO long arm,242 TC with rusty's skid, 36'' TSL bias, locked D30, Welded and trussed D44HD. ext. rear LCA. IRO premo sliders.

It's really easy to pull the center console apart. 1st pop out the long plastic piece along the windshield, then take the ashtray out. there are 3 screws holding in the center plastic, 2 on the top and 1 behind the ashtray. Plastic should pop out at this point. Remove heater control assembly should take 15mins tops to get to it

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TJ 4.0, AX15, 4"lift, 34" LTBs, Locked w/OX, Alloy axles, Skyjacker TC bracket, SYE, AtoZ Rocker Guards, Home Brew Bumpers, Tube Fenders & LCAs, GenRight EXT tank, Nth Degree SS & oil pan skid, winch

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[quote="vwmaniacx"]Yeah, most of the time it's better off to start with the cheapest part tho..lol
/quote]

Spend a couple minutes with a multimeter and do some troubleshooting, The thing with the reistor being bad. Is it would have to be totaly open in all paths. When normaly they break in the resitor paths as stated before so it only works in high, Just pull up a wiring diagram. and spend some time understanding it, its a very simple circut, even if you dont have a miltimeter, with just using 2 jumper wires and testing the easyest parts of it will save money over replacing good parts, then again, at times if while your in there, its good just to start off fresh

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Project: 1989 XJ 4.0 no-output, AW-4, NP231, 5" lift, Revolver shackles, 38.5" swamper TSL's on H1 beadlocks, Dana 60 front with ARB, Dana 60 rear welded, Hella 500's, Dynomax catback, Karnage Offroad Bumper, Smittybilt Xrc8 winch, oil leaks

...or you could just put it off until next fall

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94 2dr XJ

x2

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Project: 1989 XJ 4.0 no-output, AW-4, NP231, 5" lift, Revolver shackles, 38.5" swamper TSL's on H1 beadlocks, Dana 60 front with ARB, Dana 60 rear welded, Hella 500's, Dynomax catback, Karnage Offroad Bumper, Smittybilt Xrc8 winch, oil leaks

Well, Smitty came by and we checked the switch, the resistor, and the relay. The relay checked out possibly bad, so I replaced that. After that didn't work, I replaced the resistor. Still nothing. All the fuses are good, so I'm really running out of options here.

_________________
I'd give anything to go back in time, but the memories are free.

'99 TJ Black
4" Trailmaster lift
33" BFG Mud terrains
Limited slip rear

Like bob said, a few simple multimeter tests should show the problem. Just work backwards from the motor it's self. Use acouple jumpers to see if the motor works.

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99 wj 6.5'' IRO long arm,242 TC with rusty's skid, 36'' TSL bias, locked D30, Welded and trussed D44HD. ext. rear LCA. IRO premo sliders.

Yeah, there were some multimeter tests. I don't think there really was anything else left to test. Maybe I should go and get some wire so I can test the motor itself, I'm wondering if maybe my motor went bad, and got a bad one offline as well. I'll try and pick some up and make some test leads tomorrow.

_________________
I'd give anything to go back in time, but the memories are free.

'99 TJ Black
4" Trailmaster lift
33" BFG Mud terrains
Limited slip rear